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Microneedling: The Science Behind This Skin-Boosting Treatment

Writer's picture: Carolyn KhooCarolyn Khoo

Updated: Feb 23


A professional performs a microneedling procedure, applying the device to a client's face to rejuvenate the skin.
A professional performs a microneedling procedure, applying the device to a client's face to rejuvenate the skin.

My Experience with Microneedling

My approach to skincare has always been simple: face soap, moisturiser, done. But as I approach 50 and notice hormonal changes affecting my skin, I started exploring new ways to maintain skin health and elasticity.

Despite my low pain tolerance, I found microneedling surprisingly comfortable, with immediate results. It complements my hands-on approach to wellness, which is why I now offer it. After learning about the science behind microneedling, I realised it’s not just another beauty trend—it’s an evidence-backed treatment with real skin benefits.


What Is Microneedling?

Microneedling, also known as collagen induction therapy (CIT), is a minimally invasive cosmetic procedure that uses fine needles to create micro-injuries in the skin. These tiny punctures trigger the body’s natural wound-healing process, leading to increased collagen and elastin production—two essential proteins responsible for firm, youthful skin.

Research published in the Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery found that microneedling can increase collagen production by up to 400% over a series of treatments. This process strengthens the skin barrier, improves texture, and reduces scarring.

Microneedling is commonly used to address:

✔ Fine lines and wrinkles

✔ Acne scars and stretch marks

✔ Uneven skin texture and enlarged pores

✔ Hyperpigmentation and sun damage

✔ Hair thinning and scalp health (when combined with PRP or growth serums)

Book your first Microneedling session with Khoo Massage Therapies here and receive 50% off your first treatment (Valid until 31 March only)


The Science Behind Microneedling: How It Works

The controlled micro-injuries created by microneedling stimulate a three-phase healing process:

1️⃣ Inflammation Phase (0-48 hours) – The skin perceives the tiny punctures as “injuries,” triggering an immune response that boosts blood circulation and cell turnover.

2️⃣ Proliferation Phase (Days 3-7) – Fibroblast cells produce new collagen and elastin, rebuilding the skin’s structure and improving elasticity.

3️⃣ Remodelling Phase (Weeks 4-6) – The newly formed collagen strengthens the skin, improving firmness, texture, and overall appearance.

A 2018 study in Dermatologic Surgery found that four microneedling sessions over four months significantly reduced wrinkles and skin laxity, with improvements continuing for months post-treatment.


What Are the Benefits of Microneedling?

Stimulates Natural Collagen Production

Microneedling enhances the body’s ability to repair and rejuvenate itself naturally—unlike Botox, which temporarily paralyses muscles.

Improves Skin Texture & Scarring

A 2015 study in the International Journal of Dermatology found that microneedling improved atrophic acne scars by 31-62% after three sessions. The process breaks down scar tissue while encouraging healthy skin renewal.

Enhances Skincare Absorption

Microneedling increases skin permeability by up to 300%, making hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C serums more effective. This has been demonstrated in clinical studies published in The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology.

Minimal Downtime Compared to Other Treatments

Unlike laser resurfacing or chemical peels, microneedling doesn’t strip away layers of skin, meaning faster healing and fewer side effects.

Safe for All Skin Types

Unlike laser treatments, which may not be suitable for darker skin tones due to the risk of hyperpigmentation, microneedling can be safely performed on all skin types.


What Does the Research Say About Microneedling?

📌 Microneedling vs. Laser Resurfacing

A 2016 study in the Journal of Dermatologic Surgery found that microneedling was as effective as fractional laser therapy for treating acne scars, with less downtime and fewer side effects.

📌 Microneedling & Hair Growth

A 2017 study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology found that microneedling combined with minoxidil was significantly more effective for hair regrowth than minoxidil alone.

📌 Microneedling for Wrinkles

A 2018 study in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery confirmed that microneedling significantly reduced fine lines and wrinkles, particularly when combined with topical treatments like growth factors and PRP (platelet-rich plasma).


Are There Risks to Microneedling?

Microneedling is considered low-risk when performed by a qualified professional. However, possible side effects include:

  • Redness & Mild Irritation – Usually resolves within 24-48 hours.

  • Temporary Dryness & Peeling – The skin’s natural renewal process may cause slight flaking.

  • Bruising or Swelling – More common in sensitive areas but typically mild.

  • Risk of Infection – Proper aftercare is crucial to prevent bacterial contamination.

Severe complications are rare but may occur if proper hygiene and sterilisation practices aren’t followed.


Who Should Avoid Microneedling?

While microneedling is safe for most people, it is not recommended for:

❌ Active acne or skin infections – Risk of spreading bacteria.

❌ History of keloid scars – Microneedling stimulates collagen, which could worsen raised scarring in keloid-prone individuals.

❌ Recent Accutane use – Skin needs at least six months to recover after stopping strong retinoids.

❌ Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals – While no direct risks have been identified, hormonal changes may affect healing.


How Many Microneedling Sessions Are Needed?

Results vary depending on age, skin condition, and treatment goals. General recommendations:

Concern

Sessions Needed

Fine lines & wrinkles

3-6 sessions

Acne scars

4-6 sessions

Hyperpigmentation

3-4 sessions

Stretch marks

6+ sessions

Hair loss (scalp)

6-8 sessions

Treatments are typically spaced 4-6 weeks apart, with maintenance sessions recommended every 6-12 months.


How Does It Compare to Botox & Other Treatments?

I’ve had clients ask, “Is microneedling better than Botox?” The answer depends on your goals.

Treatment

What It Does

Botox

Temporarily relaxes muscles to reduce wrinkles. No effect on skin texture.

Fillers

Adds volume but doesn’t stimulate collagen.

Laser

Resurfaces skin but requires longer recovery.

Microneedling

Stimulates natural collagen, improving texture and scars.

If you want smoother, firmer skin without injecting anything, microneedling may be a more natural option.

Dr. Lance Setterfield, a microneedling expert, says:"Microneedling provides long-term skin improvements by triggering the body’s own healing process, rather than relying on temporary solutions."


Final Thoughts: Is Microneedling Worth It?

Microneedling is more than just a beauty trend—it’s a scientifically backed treatment with proven benefits for collagen production, skin texture, and overall rejuvenation.

Unlike Botox or laser resurfacing, microneedling stimulates the skin’s natural repair processes, making it a versatile option for those looking to improve their skin without synthetic fillers or extended recovery time.

For those considering microneedling, understanding the science behind it can help in making an informed decision. With the right approach and professional guidance, it can be a valuable tool for long-term skin health.

 
 
 

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